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Hot Tubs

By Janet | January 31, 2008

HOT TUBS

CALM DOWN! Take a deep breath and relax…… According to the National Spa Institute more people than ever are installing outdoor hot tubs! Now that they are here things should get a little easier for you. Feeling a little better?
 

Of all the different aspects to look at and consider when shopping for a spa or hot tub, there are two things that should be considered as most important.

Comfort in the Spa:
No matter how good or high a quality the spa may be, if you’re not comfortable in it you wont be happy with it. The main reason most people get a hot tub is for relaxation and enjoyment. This is a bit difficult to accomplish in a spa that’s not comfortable to be in. The only real way to tell the comfort of a spa is to test it with water in it. Wet test! What may feel comfortable, or even uncomfortable dry, will feel completely different full of water with the effects of buoyancy.

Dealer Trust and integrity:
The dealer you get a spa from can be as important or even more important that the manufacturer of the spa. It’s the dealer that will have the best advise of care, and the dealer that will be providing timely service and taking care of warranty issues. The longer a dealers been in business the more likely they will go the extra mile to keep their customers happy. The length of time a dealer has carried a particular brand of spa can also be of importance. Sticking whit the same brand for a long time can generally indicate a great satisfaction with that brand and the level of support provided by the manufacturer.
 

There are a great many hot tub choices available. In fact there’s well over 100 different spa manufacturers  (and of course each thinks they’re the best). This means there’s surely something for every lifestyle and every space. Explore your options before buying, take stock of what’s most important to you and you’ll be certain to get the spa perfectly suited for your needs.
 
 SPA CABINETS 

The first thing most people generally notice when they see a spa is the cabinet. The appearance of an elegant, textured cabinet will not only add to the aesthetic appeal of the spa, but will also add to the feeling that the spa is quality furniture.

Wood cabinets are most common, but it should be remembered that all wooden cabinets will require some kind of care and maintenance in order to prolong their life and maintain their beauty. There can also be many different qualities of materials and methods of construction. Some manufacturers may cut costs by manufacturing very thin cabinets or using woods of very low quality. These cabinets can be prone to quickly deteriorating when exposed to the elements.

Redwood Cabinets:
Perhaps the most popular, but be aware, the quality of redwood is quickly declining. As the price of “quality” redwood skyrockets, and it becomes more scarce, manufacturers that continue to use it may have to turn to a much lower quality. Lower quality redwood can have little, or no rot resistance that is normally associated with redwood. True quality redwood should be all pink in color and have tight grain. Because most spa cabinets are stained it can be difficult to tell from the outside the quality of the wood. Looking at the inside of the cabinet, redwood should be all pink in color. Anything white, or light yellow in color is “sap wood” (from the outer part of the tree) and has very little rot resistance. The grain of the wood should also tight and close together. Wide grain indicates trees that have grown very quickly and have not had enough time to build up a sufficient amount of their natural resistance to decay.

Cedar Cabinets:
Cedar is becoming more and more popular, and with routine maintenance can be kept looking quite nice. Western Red Cedar is lighter colored than Redwood and technically has more rot resistance. It’s also slightly softer and weighs less than redwood.

Mahogany Cabinets:
Currently used by at least one manufacturer, with lots of attention mahogany can be one of the most beautiful of woods used. Like all natural woods it too needs to be maintained. Without attention it can deteriorate to a point of “unsalvageability” quicker than redwood or cedar. As a rule mahogany is more labor intensive when treating, when compared to redwood or cedar, due to its propensity toward fading and the need of extensive sanding prior to staining. Also mahogany has been found to be more prone to warping than redwood or cedar.

Regardless of the type of wood use for the cabinet, the thickness of the wood is also important. The thinner the wood the more prone it can be to cracking, warping and just plain falling apart. Also, thin cabinets make it difficult to attach many types of cover lifters.

Polymer / Plastic:
Composite cabinets are quickly establishing themselves as a strong presence in spa manufacturing. The new synthetics can look like wood and really do require very little maintenance. These plastic cabinets usually require much less maintenance than their wooden counterparts, but some can be prone to fading or yellowing from sunlight. Before purchasing one of these check with your dealer about not only the length of the warranty but specifically about sun damage and warpage.

In a resent survey of major spa manufacturers the European market is still strong for wooden skirts, but the US is  moving toward a greater than 50% synthetic market.

Over the lip vs. Drop in cabinets.
There are two basic types of cabinet designs, one where the shell of the spa comes over the top edge of the cabinet (lip-over style) and the other where the shell rests on a rail of wood that sticks out from the lip of the shell. (deck-style)

While as a rule the deck-style style requires more precision and is more expensive to manufacture, when done properly, with a strong sub-frame, the lip-over style can be just as strong. The argument for the lip-over style is generally be that spa water does not rest on the rail, found in the deck-style, and therefore is less prone to water rot. While the argument for the deck style will be that it is protective of the lip of the spa by providing a rail for things to bump into rather than directly into the spa shell.

Realistically though the difference between the two is only physical appearance. The amount of spa water that the lip of a cabinet is exposed to is far less than the abuse that mother nature dishes out to the sides of the cabinet. If the cabinet is made of a high quality wood either should last equally long.

Spa Cabinet Construction
Just as important as the type of material used in a spa cabinet, the way in which the cabinet is constructed is as important.

Removable Walls:
Removable panels allow for removal from the hot tub in case repairs are needed. Just imagine trying to repair a car without having the ability to open the hood. The repairing process becomes nearly impossible, extremely time consuming, and expensive. With this design, your spa can be easily checked and serviced when needed.

Interior Frame Construction:
Having removable wall panels is only part of the solution to your spa’s “serviceability”. Another key is having solid 2 x 4 construction. This provides enough strength to hold 200-300 gallons of water (between 1,600 and 2,400 lbs.) when the wall panels are removed.

Many manufacturers save money by only using 1×2’s or 2×3’s to construct their frames. This dimension stock may not provide the adequate strength required to support a spa full of water without the wall panels attached. When the wall panels are removed, stress can be added to an already weak frame. Some manufacturers tout having removable walls, but that benefit is rather compromised if the construction can’t support itself. 2 x 4 construction provides plenty of strength to support a spa full of water, even when the panel walls are removed. A few manufacturers tout 2 x 6 construction, but this really is overkill and the only advantage is as a sales/marketing gimmick.

Pressure Treated Base:
Wherever you choose to install your hot tub, it is strongly recommended that your spa have a pressure treated base - a critical requirement if your spa is outdoors. Since an outdoor spa is subjected to harsh elements detrimental to any type of wood, a pressure treated base will prolong the life of your spa’s cabinet.

Some manufacturers are now using a plastic or polymer base. This type of base will far outlast even the best pressure treated wood base. Besides being impervious to rot and decay, a polymer type base can also do a better job at keeping bugs, rodents and other critters from crawling into and making a home inside the spas cabinetry.
 
Delivery & Installation of a Portable Spa
 

If your spa will be coming from an established, reputable dealer, most times delivery is included in the purchase of the spa. Many dealers will make a pre-delivery inspection to determine what may be required to deliver your spa, and some may even suggest and/or make recommendations for you to consider regarding placement and location for the spa. Remember though, time is money, and even though this is something that is not “itemized on the bill”, it is calculated into the price of the spa. Dealers that charge extra for delivery, typically charge less for the spa. Some dealers are capable of doing everything that may be required to install the spa, including creating a pad for the spa to sit on and running a proper electrical circuit. Others may only be able to refer you to the proper qualified contractors. Some spa manufacturers will even provide you with a “pre-delivery manual” with important guidelines.If purchasing from a “big box store”, or over the internet, you’re basically on your own.
 

In most cities and counties, permits are required for the installation of electrical circuits or the construction of exterior surfaces (decks and gazebos). Some municipalities even require payment of a “use permit”. In addition, some communities have adopted certain residential barrier codes that may require fencing and/or self-closing gates to prevent unsupervised access to the spa by children under 5 years of age. In most of these areas a spa cover that meets the “ASTM Standard  F1346-91, Standard for a Manual Safety Cover” will meet the requirements. A phone call to your local Building Department will inform you of any applicable barrier requirements and/or any required building permits that will need to be acquired. Usually a spa dealer can also provide this information.

Site Selection and Preparation

Where to locate your spa is completely up to you, but there are some things worth considering that may have been over looked.

A filled spa is extremely heavy and needs to sit on a structurally sound, flat, level surface. Uneven settling could cause a spa to crack, and quite possibly would not be covered under warranty. Reinforced concrete or a deck engineered to carry the weight is preferred. In some areas where the soil is mostly sand and the water table is very high, pavers may be the only way to go. Be sure to check the owners manual/warranty for what’s acceptable and if in doubt contact the manufacturer (more than once a dealer has mistakenly given the wrong advise on this).

The door to the equipment compartment needs to be accessible for general maintenance and repairs. Usually 2′ of clearance is the minimum required. More is better.

An electrical disconnect switch will need to be located within visible sight and at least 5′ from the spa.

The closer the spa is to the house, the more likely it will be used. Most don’t want to walk 1/4 mile through the rain, sleet and snow to use the spa, when in fact that can be one of the most enjoyable times.

If a cover lifter is going to be used, most require some side clearance for installation and operation. Some distance between the side of the spa and a fence or wall may be necessary. If a cover lifter is not being used, a place to set the cover when using the spa will need to be determined.

Spas being placed on an existing deck will probably require the deck be reinforced. Consultation with a qualified building contractor or structural engineer is advisable.

Spas located indoors have some special considerations.

A great deal of “splash out” and spill over can occur and eventually a spa will probably leak. An indoor location should be able to accommodate the entire contents of the spa without causing damage. A center floor drain or large catch basin is worth considering.

Flooring materials should be non-slip and not effected by becoming moist.

Steam and evaporation needs to be accounted for. This excess moisture could cause damage to the surrounding structure or mold and mildew. Proper ventilation is required to prevent this.

Most of all enjoy your spa experience!
 

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Topics: Garden Furniture |

One Response to “Hot Tubs”

  1. PefNeendappep Says:
    August 22nd, 2008 at 10:12 pm

    I’m new here, just wanted to say hello and introduce myself.

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